Flintlock won't spark - help! (2025)

  • Thread starterwinstonr1
  • Start dateJul 25, 2025
  • Tags
    flintflintlockhelprepair

Flintlock won't spark - help! (3)

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winstonr1

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  • Jul 25, 2025
  • #1

Hello gents, I would like some help diagnosing a lack of sparks in a flintlock I just purchased. So far I believe my frizzen is hard - I can skate tool steel off of it. I am thinking maybe a mainspring or lock geometry/flint issue. Can anyone help diagnose with these pics and video? I have been able to get sparks every so often, but not consistently enough to enjoy shooting!

Thanks in advance
Winston

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Phil Coffins

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  • Jul 25, 2025
  • #2

First thing I see is a dull flint and the shape of the frizzen is suspect.

Sam squanch

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  • Jul 25, 2025
  • #3

Is that one of the Hy - Hunter pistols? I don’t think they were made to actually fire.

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William Hagewood

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  • Jul 25, 2025
  • #4

Could be several things but if any part of your flint is touching the frizzen on half cock, that is part of the problem. Also, knap your flint a bit more

Sam squanch

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  • Jul 25, 2025
  • #5

Maybe your frizzen is not made from a steel that will spark well. May need to sole it.

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winstonr1

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  • Jul 25, 2025
  • #6

Phil Coffins said:

First thing I see is a dull flint and the shape of the frizzen is suspect.

Good to know - I will get to knapping that. As for frizzen shape, do you think it is too curved?

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winstonr1

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  • Jul 25, 2025
  • #7

Sam squanch said:

Is that one of the Hy - Hunter pistols? I don’t think they were made to actually fire.

I think it is, I had not heard about this before, sadly! It does have a flash hole I should mention.

E

earlwb

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  • Jul 25, 2025
  • #8

If that was one of the ones made in Japan then the frizzen sparking surface needs to be hardened. They did not harden them from the factory. Plus some versions did not have the hole in the barrel drilled out for the flash pan to ignite the charge in the barrel.

I got one like that ages ago and after hardening the frizzen it sparked fine then. But I need to reharden the frizzen from time to time still as they use a chrome steel alloy that only lets you harden the surface in a very thin layer. The flint actually wears it down after so many shots.

Yeah that flint itself looks a little on the dull side too.

PathfinderNC

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  • Jul 25, 2025
  • #10

Looking at the face of the frizzen- no striating from use, which raises a question if there was originally a sole attached to the frizzen face. It appears it may have.

ronaldrothb49

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  • Jul 26, 2025
  • #11

Might work better if you have a new flint the one you have looks more like a creek pebble. You need a thinner piece of leather. probably need a longer flint. The flint you have is sitting way too far forward in the jaws and it doesn't look like there is any leather on the bottom of the flint which is going to allow the flint to move when it strikes the frizzen.

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earlwb

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  • Jul 26, 2025
  • #12

I went back and looked at the pics again. I did not see a hole in the barrel drilled to let the flame from the flash pan get to the powder charge inside the barrel. I also saw that it said it was made in Germany. Of course that could just be for the lock action though. It is usually stamped on the barrel as to where it is made. I surmise they did like the Japanese made ones and did not harden the frizzen or drill out the flash hole.

Some of the Brown Bess locks or frizzens could be used to replace the existing one. If you cannot harden the frizzen face.

You ought to get a gunsmith to check it out as the barrel may not be shootable. It may be made for decoration only,

C

cswab

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  • Jul 26, 2025
  • #14

I have come across a number of these locks. The plate is usually some form of white brass or ??, not steel. The mainspring is a bent piece of flat steel. The rumor I heard decades ago was that these were constructed using original parts (cock, frizzen, frizzen spring) for a film. Some have "made in Germany (in english) stamped into the plate. Some of the problems are as follows.

The mainsprings are a joke, with some effort a chambers large siler can be made to work. The frizzen spring has ni pin locking it into place (its held by the lockplate screw), this can be remedied by filing the back side and leaving a pin and drilling the lockplate. The frizzen itself is a steel (sometimes) that will harden but doesn't have enough carbon to spark well. This may be why they weren't used. I was able to remidie this with Kasenit. Cherry red should work but you may need to put a sole on it. Hope this helps.

Sam squanch

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  • Jul 26, 2025
  • #15

I’d just sole it with a piece of saw blade, epoxy it first to see if it works before going to the trouble of soldering it on.

Jappo

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  • Jul 26, 2025
  • #16

I have two of those. One I had to have a mainspring made and the frizzen hardened. Works great now. The other I got already had the sole on. I've had no problem with it except for the wear on the flint. Have to sharpen it every fourth or fifth shot. Might be ugly but it works.

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Shortfingers

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  • Jul 26, 2025
  • #17

Phil Coffins said:

First thing I see is a dull flint and the shape of the frizzen is suspect.

Agreed…..flint is really just a chunk of rock at this point.

bldtrailer

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  • Jul 30, 2025
  • #18

watch this to knap that rock

Flintlock won't spark - help! (2025)
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